New Paths with Ancient Varieties
In 2009, Martin Allram (a Demeter-certified farmer in the Waldviertel) approached Josef Weghaupt and brought him a few sacks of his re-cultivated Waldstaudenroggen, an ancient variety originating from the so-called Bohemian Massif, to which the Waldviertel region also belongs geologically. Josef Weghaupt and his team began their first baking experiments: "And we failed gloriously at first."
Compared to regular rye, the grain of Waldstaudenroggen is at least two to three times smaller, with a higher proportion of husk but a smaller starch body and germ. This is why sourdoughs with Waldstaudenroggen ferment strongly. It was only when summer apples were added to the recipe that the bread acquired the juicy, full-bodied, and digestible taste that has since made it a bestseller.
The fact that Josef Weghaupt and his team enjoy experimenting—and occasionally succeed!—has spread throughout the community of ecological farmers. New collaborations are constantly emerging, and—most importantly to Josef Weghaupt—partnerships on an equal footing. And so, he does not speak of suppliers, but rather partners. "We fundamentally do not buy from traders. We exclusively buy directly from farmers. It is extremely important to us that the farmer develops a perspective through the purchase and, of course, also takes care of regenerative agriculture."